After an easy 40 minute pot hole dodging road transfer, I was welcomed into Pamushana Lodge like a family member – with a friendly embrace and a cool face cloth.

Following a refreshing drink I was escorted to my room. “Room” being an understatement. I was regally accommodated in the five bedroom Malilangwe House. With its private kitchen, dedicated butler and chef – along with extraordinary views and horizon pool, this “house” would be fitting for the Royal Family.

Without much time to unpack I was excitedly whizzed away on my first safari drive with the rather cheeky, Mr T as my guide and the unflappable, Meme as our remarkable tracker.

Pamushana Lodge is located in 130,000 acres of private land, known as Malilangwe Reserve. To put this in perspective, if you’ve been to Sabi Sands in South Africa, that’s 15,000 acres. Saying Malilangwe Reserve is enormous is no exaggeration.

Fortunately the wildlife was out and about. On my first drive out we encountered a pair of cheetah brothers casually sauntering around the plains, languidly in search of an early dinner but without much intent. Nearby a giraffe lopped past and a herd of elephants wandered in for a drink.

The wildlife is certainly present at Malilangwe Reserve – everything you’d want to cross off your list and more. But what struck me was that the game here was much less habituated to the presence of humans than in other places like Kruger National Park or Sabi Sands. The upside of this is that wildlife encounters feel more special, more real – you know there is not a throng of other vehicles nearby and you may be the only humans animals come across within weeks. The downside is you may not get quite as close as you might in more popular game reserves but the exclusivity more than compensates.

Returning to the lodge after each game drive, the sparkling pool was a welcome relief – and the views from both the main pool and the private pool at Malilangwe House (or within your own suite) are extraordinary. Meals at Pamunshana are just another highlight – a combination of locally grown vegetables and South African meat, expertly prepared by the lodge’s chef. Of course, as with all Singita properties, all meals and drinks are included, which keeps things friendly between guests at the bar!

One of my highlights at Pamushana Lodge was a sunset boat cruise on Malilangwe Dam. Bumbling along aboard the very comfortable boat we were soon to pause midstream for sundowners when we turned a corner and almost literally ran into a 100 strong herd of elephant – mums, dads and babies included. It was a moment I’ll treasure forever, watching the elephants wade their way across the water to the other bank – staring us down and calling out playfully to one another.

A string of unbelievable, “pinch myself is it real?” moments smoothly strung together is what my stay at Singita Pamushana Lodge felt like. And there’s an all pervading feeling of being without time while on Malilangwe Reserve. A place with a history going back further than it’s possible to document. It’s at times eerie, at times barren but always beautiful and forever surprising. And so entirely different to other areas in Africa. Perhaps these factors are what make Malilangwe Reserve so special but it’s difficult to put one’s finger on why it’s so remarkable. What I am sure of is that it’s left a mark on my soul and in my heart that I can’t shake. I have a feeling I will be back!

Written by Kim Tillott (Forth & Wonder)

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